Treasures of Myanmar in BAGAN

Treasures of Myanmar in BAGAN

“Minglaba,” I was greeted in Burmese at the immigration counter soon after my Air Bagan flight landed at Mingaladon International Airport, Myanmar. At first glance, I saw most male officers in the airport wearing sarong, the national costume of Myanmar, which has become a unique characteristic of this country. Many tourists also wear this kind of apparel during travel in Myanmar to spice up their trip.

With the same airline, Air Bagan, I took a domestic flight to Bagan, the city reputed as “the sea of pagodas.” We landed in the morning, which was the perfect time to stroll at the local market. Nong U, the biggest market in Bagan, is always crowded with local people coming out to trade. A variety of goods are available here, ranging from fresh food, local fruits, household commodities, to souvenirs for tourist like rattan products and lacquer wares.

Not very far from Nong U Market is situated the Shwezigon Pagoda, one of the most outstanding and important landmarks of Myanmar’s cultural heritage. It is a prototype of the Burmese stupa, believed to enshrine the Lord Buddha’s teeth and a piece of his forehead bone. Built during the reign of King Anawratha and completed during the reign of King Kyanzittha, in 1102, the pagoda has a legend behind it. It is said that when the king, who had great faith in Buddhism, was looking for a site on which to build the pagoda, he put the Lord Buddha’s relics in a casket and placed it on the back of a white elephant, decorated with jewelry. Then he just let the elephant go. He made a vow that anywhere the white elephant lay down, that would be the suitable place to build the pagoda to enshrine the Lord Buddha’s relics.

Just near the entrance to the pagoda, there is a building where a graceful golden bell is kept. King Bayin-Naung commanded to have this colossal bell built. On it is written an epigraph in three languages: Mon, Myanmar and Pali. It is dated Myanmar era 929, and so it is more than 430 years old. Included in the bell’s epigraph is the record that in 1557 A.D., Bayin-naung covered the Shwezigon Pagoda “from its pinnacle to its base with a decoration of gold-leaf so that it shines brilliantly.” A smaller bell of the same shape can be found in the northwest corner of the pagoda compound near the covered stairs.

Bagan is located in the dry central plains of the country, on the eastern bank of the Ayeyarwady River, 145 kilometers (90 miles) southwest of Mandalay. More than a thousand years ago (around 14th century, B.E.), Bagan was the capital of the first Burmese empire, which was rich in art and culture, especially Buddhist art. Ancient people believed that building a pagoda could bring good fortune and success to the builder and his family and that they would ascend to heaven after death. Bagan maintained its glory for more than 500 years before it was conquered and demolished by the Mongolian army.

Horse carriages are widely used for transportation in Bagan and have become popular among tourists as a charming way for sightseeing and visiting old temples and pagodas along the roadside.

I had a chance to visit Ananda Temple, the Buddhist temple considered the most beautiful art in Myanmar, which was built in 1091 during the reign of King Kyanzittha. Adapted from Indian architectural styles in the early Bagan period, the temple itself is shaped similar to a cross, with several terraces leading to the top, which terminates with a small pagoda and an umbrella. Unbelievably, the temple has lasted for over a thousand years without any column support. Entryways on each of the four sides house four standing Buddha images, which are adorned with gold leaf, each facing a cardinal direction, from north to south. Inside the vihara are middle-sized Buddha images in several postures from India and Sri Lanka. Each side of the walls is decorated with bas relief sculptures describing the life of the Lord Buddha.

At lunchtime, I stopped at Aureum Palace Bagan Hotel and had a meal at the restaurant located on the top floor of the ten-story tower. It provides a wonderful 360-degree panoramic view of the sea of pagodas in Bagan.

There is another remarkable place well known among Burmese people called Mount Popa, which is believed to be the residence of the spirits of ‘Nats,’ beings with supernatural powers. In Myanmar, Nats are widely respected by local people. They are regarded as holy spirits who can bring both good or bad luck to people. In order to please all 37 spirits of Nats, people have to perform rituals to beg for good fortune from them.

At the foot of Mount Popa, the first step of the whole 777 steps of stairways reaching up to the mountaintop begins. Visitors have to go up barefoot, but luckily the passageway up to the top is covered with a roof. Along the way, some Buddha images and statues of Nats are situated for brief stops where you can pay respect and take a break from the long climb. The top area of the mountain provides a fantastic view of mountains and the crater of the old volcano.

Just before nightfall is the most perfect time of day to witness the breathtaking beauty of Bagan. I was in a horse carriage on the way to the Shwesandaw Pagoda, which is regarded as the ‘Sunset Pagoda’ because most tourists usually come to this pagoda for the most stunning view of the sunset in Bagan. Shwesandaw Pagoda was built with the mixed styles of India, Mon, and Burmese architechture. The pagoda contains a series of five terraces, topped with a cylindrical stupa, which has a bejeweled umbrella. To reach the top of the pagoda, tourists have to climb up using a steep stairway but will be rewarded with a panoramic view of hundreds of pagodas of Bagan standing in the orange sky stretching to the horizon during sunset. From this viewpoint, I could feel how powerful the great empire was in the past.

As I laid my eyes beyond the forest of pagodas, then I could see the Ayeyarwady River flowing in sparkling lights. This river of life has never run dry even though is has existed for so long. Only traces of ruined bricks remain today in Bagan, yet, the Ayeyarwady River is still as elegant as in the previous time as a part of the Bagan Empire’s heart of faith and glorious power.

Special thanks to Air Bagan, the airline that brought me to the majestic land of Myanmar. Air Bagan operates direct flights from Yangon to some major cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, daily. For more information contact +66 (0) 2237 6915-17 (Bangkok Sales Agent) or visit www.airbagan.com.

Text and Photos Courtesy of Tropical magazine. All Rights Reserved.

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