Singapore River – The Rhythm of Life

Singapore River – The Rhythm of Life

The Singapore River is where the story of Singapore begins, and the surrounding area around the mouth of the river is today a well-tended historic district studded with attractions. It is clean, safe, picturesque and, as the tourism bureau’s tagline goes, very easy to enjoy. It's an area of national monuments, iconic landmarks, historical bridges, gleaming skyscrapers, conservation shophouses, museums, parks and a bewildering array of dining and entertainment choices. The best way to see it? From a bumboat on the river if you have less than an hour, or by foot if you have time and want to see the details.

Start at the Merlion Park – where you will find that water-spouting, half-fish, half-lion Singapore icon The Merlion. The view is fantastic and no visitor leaves without taking a photo here. When you are ready to explore upriver, cross the street to Fullerton Hotel, one of Singapore’s grandest hotels. Built in 1928, it had been the General Post Office and Inland Revenue Authority during the colonial days. Its neoclassical facade is one of the most impressive in Singapore and its lion-head gargoyles a delightful adaptation. From the riverside, you will get first glimpses of life along the river. And the first thing you will notice are the skyscrapers of Raffles Place, Singapore’s financial district. Japanese architect Kenzo Tange’s United Overseas Bank (UOB) Building – built to the 280m metre limit set by the Civil Aviation Authority of Singapore – is right by the river and boasts an impressive collection of public sculptures. Look for Salvador Dali’s Homage to Newton and Bird by Fernando Botero.

From UOB’s spacious atrium, Boat Quay and its bars, pubs and restaurants are just a few paces away. It's a cosy riverfront setting made up of colourful conservation shophouses. Originally built as godowns and offices for the leading towkays of maritime trade in the 19th century, these shophouses are said to have transacted three quarters of Singapore’s shipping business during its heyday. Their varying heights were said to signify the wealth of its owner. The architecture here is a mix of East and West, with elaborate pilasters and cornices mixing comfortably with curved gables and carvings of auspicious Chinese characters. Today, Boat Quay is known for its multinational menu, laidback alfresco dining and happy hours. Among the most popular: The Penny Black London Black Victorian London Pub, Harry’s and Jazz @ South Bridge. Crowds of expats, yuppies and visitors swell the promenade in the evening.

From Boat Quay you will notice the many tourist bumboats that go up and down the river. You can get on one at any of the many Singapore River Cruise jetties for a breezy ride. These boats were originally used to transport goods between ships anchored at the harbour and the quay where the godowns were located, and were mostly owned by the Hokkien and Teochew clans, who differentiated their boats by painting either a red (Teochew) or green (Hokkien) “eye” on the bow.

At the end of Boat Quay is Elgin Bridge – and another good spot for a picture postcard view of modern Singapore: Boat Quay's old-world architecture juxtaposed against Raffles Place’s high-reaching skyline. Continuing on, at The Riverwalk you will find gourmet Italian deli and pastry at Riccioti, then the Clarke Quay subway stop and Swisshotel Merchant Court Hotel.

Further along is Riverside Village. A hundred and fifty years ago, this was a plague-infested squatter colony of opium dens, brothels and secret societies. Today, colourful shops and classy restaurants give the area an upbeat atmosphere. Next to it is Riverside Point, another development with very pleasant riverside dining and, on the third floor, a jewel of a museum – the Singapore History Museum. It is open until 9pm on Friday and admission is free after 7pm. Riverside Point is also home to some of Singapore’s most popular restaurants: the famous Chen Fu Ji Fried Rice, the contemporary Mexican restaurant and bar Café Iguana and Brewerkz Restaurant and Microbrewery.

Across the river is one of Singapore River’s most exciting developments. Cross the Read Bridge and you will land right at Clarke Quay, a warehouse complex that's been transformed into a lively dining, retail and entertainment village. It is popular with tourists, professionals, fashionable youngsters and families. It has recently undergone a major renovation – those bat wing roofs and moisture fans are all new – and is a place that got Singapore’s Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew’s thumbs-up when he commented that Clarke Quay’s buzz-till-the-wee-hours excitement is what the new Singapore needs.

The River House is the oldest building at Clarke Quay. Built in the 1880s as a mansion for Chinese pepper and gambier trader Tan Yeok Nee, it is one of the few Southern-Chinese-style residential building still standing in Singapore. The two-storey building is today a bar and restaurant called IndoChine The Forbidden City. Other establishments giving Clarke Quay its X-factor include 1NiteStand Bar & Comedy Club, rock and blues bar Crazy Elephant, the cool club Attica and UK’s superclub Ministry of Sound.

From Clarke Quay, it's a short walk along the river to Robertson Quay – where in the olden days children would often take off their clothes and jump into the river for a swim. The area around Robertson Quay has a relaxed mood with a mix of elegant shops, restaurants, bars and serviced residences. You will also find the Singapore Repertory Theatre and the Singapore Tyler Print Institute and the hip Gallery hotel here.

From here, you should retrace your steps back to Clarke Quay and continue down that side of the river. Right before Coleman Bridge you will see the G-Max Reverse Bungy Jumping – a contraption which hurls up to three persons to a height of about 60 metres. Reaching speeds up to 200km/h and pressure up to 6 G-Forces, it's not for the faint-hearted, but a must for thrill-seekers in search of adrenaline rush. It's also quite a spectator sport, as you can imagine.

Across the street, the huge building with multicoloured shutters is the Hill Street Building or better known as the Ministry of Communications and the Arts (MICA) Building. It houses several art galleries on the ground floor and there is always an exhibition or two going on in the sculpture foyer and any of the privately run galleries. Singapore artists are well represented at galleries such as Rajah Gallery and Art-2. This impressive building was originally the Old Hill Street Police Station and Barracks and have the distinction of housing Singapore’s first jail. When it opened in 1934, it was the biggest building in Singapore and one of the finest in Asia – it even had electric lifts!

Continuing downriver, you will pass Coleman Bridge with its original lamp posts from 1886, the High Street Centre, and then the (new) Parliament House. Keep walking and you will arrive at the Old Parliament House, the oldest surviving government building in the city from 1827. It is today known as The Arts House, a contemporary arts venue with a cinema, restaurants and bars. Restaurant 1827 Thai, on the other end of the building, stand out with its traditional Thai menu and the historic bronze elephant statue at its entrance, a gift from King Chulalongkorn of Thailand when he visited in 1871.

Next to The Arts House is Raffles’ Landing Site, where the founder of modern Singapore first landed in 1819 with an entourage of 120 Indian assistants and soldiers. It is clearly marked by a pure-white polymarble statue today. There is also another statue – the original that was unveiled in Queen Victoria’s Jubilee Year 1887 – of Sir Stamford Raffles just around the corner at Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall. Home to the Singapore Symphony Orchestra, the concert hall was built in 1902 - forty years after the theatre - to commemorate Queen Victoria’s death. They were linked by a clocktower that was added in 1906.

Next door is one of Singapore’s most interesting museums – the Asian Civilisations Museum at Empress Place – where you can learn about the history and cultures of Southeast Asia, China, South Asia and West Asia. The Singapore River Interpretive Gallery on the second floor gives a vivid account of Singapore’s early days and is an excellent introduction to the Lion City for first time visitors. The museum is open until 9pm on Fridays and is free after 7pm. The Museum Shop has a great selection of Asia-themed handicrafts, souvenirs and books. On the waterfront side of Empress Place is IndoChine Waterfront, a fine-dining restaurant with possibly the best view of Singapore River.

Our last stop is the beautiful Cavenagh Bridge, the oldest and only suspension bridge in Singapore. It is named after Singapore’s last Governor and is today open only to foot traffic. Cross it and you will see a few interesting sculptures that recalls Singapore’s early days. To the left, in front of Fullerton Hotel, is “First Generation” by Chong Fah Cheong, a bronze depicting five boys jumping into the river for a swim – a nostalgic vignette many older Singaporean can relate to. To the right of the bridge, if you look closely, is an adorable group sculpture of Kucinta cats, a smaller breed of pedigreed cats indigenous to the Singapore River. Sometimes, you will see a real cat sharing the same cosy spot as though it long to be among the bronze mother cat and its two kittens. Nearby is a life-size group of bronze sculptures that depict familiar scenes from the past. “The River Merchants” by Aw Tee Hong shows local and English merchant Alexander Johnston and coolies loading bags of rice onto bullock carts.

Text by ST Leng. Photography by Eugene Tang. All Rights reserved.